As in the past, I decided to again install a 2 inch body lift. However, this time I went with 2x3 inch tubing to gain the lift instead of taller body pucks and longer bolts. I felt this was stronger and cheaper in the long run. The usage of the stock dimensioned pucks and hardware is also a plus. I will use prothane's model # 108 stock Jeepster body lift kit for the Jeepster.
1/8 min wall thickness (tubing)
1 1/8" and 1 1/4" metal hole saws
1/8" drill bit...for pilot holes
Below is the basic "how to" starting from the front of frame and working back.
I did not make up a metal body mount for the front cross member, (this is where the grille mounts), because I may install a new cross member for a future motor conversion.
4 - 2x3x9" tubing..... from outer edge mark 1 1/8" than 7 1/4". Center 3" width at 11/2" for both holes.
2 - 2x3x21/2" tubing.....from outer mark 1 1/8". Center width at 1 1/2"
Rear cross member body mount specs:
2 - 2x4x7" tubing.....from outer edge mark in 2 1/2" and from back edge come in 15/8". I found slight variances between one frame's rear cross member to another so I recommend using a 1 1/4" metal hole saw. Before welding, align tubing flush to the back and outer edge of the cross member. There will be a small over hang on the front side portion of the rear cross member.
Once all the metal pieces were cut, drilled, cleaned, and primed they were placed on top of the existing mounts and welded in place. As a precaution, I made sure the holes lined up correctly before clamping and welding.
Here you can see pictures of the body lift. Each body mount was drilled through both sides.